The Real Reason to Tie Up Your Running Shoes While Traveling

Finding time and energy to exercise while traveling is not an easy task. Sometimes your schedule is just packed a little too tight. And sometimes after a day when your schedule was packed too tight, the last thing you want to do in the morning is get out of bed (ughh), let alone get out of bed and exercise (uggghh), let alone get out of bed and exercise in a strange, new town. I know, tough stuff.

Aside from my unwillingness to purchase endless day-passes, I, personally, don’t really enjoy working out in gyms that I’m not familiar with. Where did I grab this from? Should I be worried about that old man in the train conductor hat staring over here? The list goes on…

We all know the deal: everyone needs exercise to be at their best health. So what is the ideal method of exercising while you travel? Walking and jogging, of course! It gives you energy, keeps you strong and ready for anything, and that’s not even the best part of getting out for a morning stroll or run! The best is what find while you’re out.

Now I’m not a competitive or marathon runner by any means, but when it comes to getting out for a little exercise and fresh air, I can really appreciate a nice run. A great thing about running and walking is that the only equipment you really need is your sneakers, but if you have a smartphone, using a free step-counter app is a fun way to track your progress. I also like having a map of the area I’m running in downloaded on my phone. Only because I get lost. A lot. I just pop my phone in my money belt, tie up my sneaks, grab my water bottle, and get exploring.

Today I jogged in one of the most beautiful parks I’ve ever seen – and I didn’t even know it was there!

In cities that are foreign to me, I don’t always end up on an ideal path, but this is where some of my favorite discoveries are made. A good starting point is to find some green space on a map. Since I’m just “going” for the sake of going, I never know what I’ll find. And while daydreaming and looking around, I always stumble upon something interesting or beautiful.

For this reason, I’ve been trying to get into the habit of going for a run at least a few times a week. By the time I finish my run, I almost always have the same thought: “I can’t believe I would have missed [insert special, interesting thing here] if I didn’t get out of bed and jog this morning!”

Backpacking Salento Colombia ~ Average Daily Cost $22 USD

How to get to Salento Colombia, what to do, and where to stay!

Salento, Colombia is one of of those destinations where you arrive with the intention of staying for two days and end up spending a week. It’s easy to become absorbed in the peaceful beauty of the fresh, green countryside and be completely taken by the pleasant and welcoming local people.

Set in the Zona Cafeteria (Coffee Region) of Quindio, Colombia, Salento is home to less than 8,000 citizens, many coffee plantations, breath-taking vistas in every direction, and one beautiful national park. If you’re spending any time in Colombia, it is definitely worth the little effort to drop in on this little town.

A view of the Cocora Valley in Salento

How to get to Salento Colombia by bus:

The most traveled way to reach Salento starts in Medellin, Colombia at Terminal del Sur (South Terminal). Unfortunately, there are no direct buses from Medellin all the way to Salento, and you’ll have to choose between Periera and Armenia as the city to change buses in. While neither city is exactly a lovely tourist destination, we were strongly advised to pass through Armenia, as it offered frequent departure times, and Pereira was said to be unsuitable for tourists.

At Terminal del Sur in Medellin, there are several different transportation companies selling a variety of options. Buses leave for Armenia all day, almost every hour and you can choose between 12-passenger mini-buses or full-size buses. For this journey, we were fresh off a bus from Guatape, Colombia to Medellin and decided to continue on a night bus to Salento. After a few minutes of negotiating and walking back and forth between ticket windows, we found the best rate on a 8:30 PM mini-bus for roughly $15 USD per person.

Note: ALL Colombian bus prices are negotiable! Throw a number out and see if they accept it. We’ve seen prices lowered by as much as 50%! If they don’t take your offer, try the next window.

The leg from Medellin to Armenia takes around 7 hours in a full-sized bus if all goes well, with one 20-minute stop for bathroom use or to purchase snacks. The mini-buses do not have a bathroom on board and should take 6 hours to complete the trip with the same bathroom stop. Our bus was delayed about an hour in the heavy traffic among semi-trucks and fellow night buses, but we’ve heard cases of this trip lasting 8-9 hours due to accidents on the road.

After a night of twisting and turning down mountain roads, we arrived in Armenia around 3:30 AM. If this is your first time on a Colombian bus, make sure you dress warm and bring a blanket and earplugs. The air-conditioning is cranked up all night and the driver blares music, no matter what hour it is. For this particular ride, I suggest motion-sickness medicine to anyone who is remotely prone to carsickness. The sharp turns on this windy highway had us both feeling queasy.

We waited in the Armenia bus terminal until the first bus left for Salento at 4:45 AM. This bus was only about an hour long, cost roughly $2 USD per person, and dropped us off right in the middle of the town square at 6:00 AM.

Total travel time: 9.5 hours

Total travel cost: $17 USD

The bus route from Medellin to Salento

5 Things to do in Salento Colombia :

1. Visit a coffee finca.

As you are traveling in the middle of one of the largest coffee production regions in the world, it goes without saying that you need to visit a coffee plantation. We had a blast at Finca de Ocasa which was a forty minute walk down the hill from La Serrana. The tour was in Spanish, but we were able to understand (beginner level Spanish) everything our tour guide was trying to explain. It was fun being able to see the entire process of production…and tasting the coffee at the end was really, really delicious!

Kate and I picking coffee in Salento

2. Trek the Valle de Cocora (Cocora Valley)

Wax palms line the mountains in the Cocora Valley

This was an epic trek. I won’t lie, it was quite hard. We had to navigate around lots of mud, water, and steep uphills, but it was easily one of the best things we did in all of Colombia. At the time it was hard, but making it to the Hummingbird House and seeing the towering wax palms is something we will remember forever. The trek takes 5-7 hours to complete.

3. Climb the stairs to the Mirador overlooking the small town of Salento

Another physical activity, but once you arrive, very rewarding! On one side of the small town there is a tall staircase up the side of a small mountain leading to the Mirador. Looking out over the pueblo of Salento was a sight to see, but the real beauty was found looking over the other side of the mountain at the natural terrain and mountains. The mirador has a great view of the river that flows near Salento, too.

The view from the Salento Mirador

4. Explore the peaceful town and stop at Cafe Jesus Martin for a cup of coffee.

Looking for the best cup of coffee in town? Stop in Café Jesus Martin and chill over a cappuccino with a slice of cake. Around the town square and down Artisan Road there are lots of fun shops selling all types of handicrafts and souvenirs. You will find clothing (sweaters, scarves), lots of trinkets for your home, and many varieties of coffee and tea.

Awesome coffee at Jesus Martin Cafe

5. Play a game of Tejo

Tejo is a sport that has been played for over 500 years in Colombia. Lots of hostels offer free tejo nights so if you visit you will certainly learn how to play.  Here is a small tejo course. People get excited to about Tejo once they learn the game involves explosives…

Tejo – Colombia’s bar sport

Where to Stay in Salento Colombia :

La Serrana Eco Farm and Hostel. As soon as you get a glimpse of this finca, you won’t believe you’re arriving at a hostel. Not only is the property beautifully maintained and landscaped with native flowers and beautiful gardens, it also has a view that will take your breath away. La Serrana is set atop a hill in the green Los Nevados mountain range, overlooking rolling green mountains, rivers, and rare Wax Palm trees. This home-away-from-home feels more like a luxury retreat than a $12.00 USD hostel.

Starting at $12.39 per night, La Serrana does not leave you wanting. It is equipped with a communal kitchen, comfortable beds that are made daily, clean en suite bathrooms, book and clothing exchanges, hundreds of DVD’s for viewing (in English!), plenty of common areas, and hammocks. The staff will happily help you arrange taxis, coffee tours, Spanish lessons, among other things, but one of my favorite parts of this hostel was the delicious family-style dinners that helped fellow backpackers meet and connect with each other.

La Serrana is set 30 minutes from the center of town by foot or just five minutes by jeep taxi ($3 USD). In my opinion, it is worth every step to attain the views you cannot get from a hostel in town and to stay in this high quality hostel.

If you wish to stay right in town, La Floresta is the economical hostel of choice for backpackers. This hostel is not nearly in the shape La Serrana is, but is less expensive, starting at only $8 USD per night, and located just a few blocks from the center square in Salento. La Floresta offers free tourist information and cheap boot rental for trekking the Cocora Valley.

La Serena – The best hostel in Salento

Average Daily Cost of Travel in Salento Colombia – $22 Per Day

Hostel: $12

Food: $5-6 (Make your own! There is a nice grocery store right in the town square)

Activities: $5-10

Transportation: $0 (Unless your taking a shared jeep to the Valley de Cocora – $2)

Total: $22-28

Traveling to Salento Colombia or anywhere in Colombia?

Post a question in the comments section below, we’ll respond with Colombia travel advice!

Backpacking Cartagena ~ Average Daily Cost $36 USD

Cartagena is a beautiful and historical city on the Caribbean coast of Colombia. It is ranked as Colombia’s top area for tourism and boasts many museums and ornate churches as well as beach views and a warm tropical climate. Whether your ideal destination is one with old city charm, exciting nightlife, or somewhere to work on your tan, Cartagena is sure to please.

Colombian Currency: 

Colombia exclusively uses the Colombian Peso as their form of currency. Roughly speaking, $1 USD = $2,000 COP. We recommend you exchange as little currency as possible. Instead, withdraw pesos from ATMs (“cajeros” in Spanish) which are available in the airport, bus station, and all over the city offering the best exchange rate.

How to get to Cartagena, Colombia

How to get to Cartagena, Colombia from Panama City, Panama: Sail. Crossing from North America to South America by land is not possible at this time because of the roadless area separating the two called the Darien Gap. The best solution to crossing the border to the Caribbean coast of Colombia is to book a ride on a sailboat. These boat trips usually cost $450-550 USD per person. While this sounds very, very expensive, these trips include all of your food and housing for five days and take you on a once-in-a-lifetime trip to Panama’s San Blas Islands.

Stephanie at itravelbyboat.com is a great person to get in contact with to schedule your trip. She always keeps an up-to-date schedule of all the captains in the area and will help you arrange transportation to the port. I have heard incredible things about the Independence, a 26 passenger sailboat. The bigger the boat, the more comfortable ride you’ll have and, of course, the more new friends you’ll meet!

Note: The first three days are spent enjoying the San Blas Islands, however, the last two full days are spent crossing the open sea. Be sure to bring seasickness medication!

The other option is flying. Flights from Panama City, Panama to Cartagena, Colombia cost $300-450 USD and usually have a connection in Bogota. I strongly suggest spending the extra $100-150 USD to sail and get an extra four days of incredible experiences out of this trip!

How to get to Cartagena, Colombia from Bogota: Fly. If you are able to book at least a week in advance, you can purchase this quick flight for $45-70. This sure beats the 20 hour bus that costs the same amount.

How to get to Cartagena, Colombia from Medellin: Bus. This bus takes 13-14 hours and costs $104,000 COP per person before negotiation. Colombian bus prices are negotiable! Work your magic. I took a night bus and suggest this option. The route is safe and the bus is comfortable with reclining seats and a bathroom on board. Bring a blanket and dress warm — the air conditioning is on max all night long. Earplugs are also necessary for this trip, as the music is still blaring past 3:00 AM.

5 Things to do in Cartagena, Colombia

1. Walk the Wall. The historical area of Cartagena is known as The Walled City. As you may have guessed, this area is surrounded by a massive stone wall that dates back hundreds of years to the Spanish Colonial era. The wall is still intact and is a popular and free tourist attraction for all who visit the city. Wait for the heat to break when the sun starts to set and take a walk on the wall around the city. The best time to do this is before 10:00 AM or after 5:00 PM, as the walk is just too hot otherwise. Why not grab a $1,500 COP ($.75 USD) can of Aguila Cerveza or $1,000 COP ($.50 USD) lemonade and watch the sunset over the water?

Walk along the Wall in Cartagena

2. Sight-see in the Walled City. Grab your sunscreen, hat, and sunglasses and get exploring. Everything in the Walled City is in walking distance, so check out some of Cartagena’s many churches, including Iglesia de San Pedro Claver, which was named in honor of its priest after his role in helping African freed slaves. There are numerous museums to stop in as well, most ranging from $7,000-$15,000 COP ($3.50-$7.50). The Museo de Oro (Gold Museum) has no admission fee, is air conditioned, and is open Tuesday-Friday.

One of many ornate churches in Cartagena, Colombia

3. Hop on a Party Bus. Open air “Chiva” buses constantly tour Cartagena just outside of the Walled City. You can spot them by their bright colors and bumping music. Colombian and foreign tourists bring their own drinks and enjoy this ride around the city. Prices can vary so have your Colombian negotiation skills ready!

4. Visit Castillo San Felipe de Barajas (the San Felipe Castle). Its called a castle, but its more of a fortress. This 350 year old castle was built, along with the wall, to protect Cartagena from pirates. It takes around 20-25 minutes to get here on foot from the Walled City. You won’t be able to miss this mammoth structure in the midst of an otherwise normal part of town. The real attraction of the castle is its role in the history of Cartagena and the sheer size of it. Skip the $20,000 ($10 USD) COP admission fee and appreciate it from outside. Inside the castle grounds, there are no guides, no information offered, and no museum.

Castillo San Felipe de Barajas (San Felipe Castle)

5. Plan a day trip to Playa Blanca. Cartagena is located on the water, but if you’re looking for a beautiful beach, take a 30 minute speed boat ride over to Playa Blanca on the nearby Rosario Islands. The price of the trip starts at $40,000 COP ($20 USD). This does not include the $12,000 COP ($6 USD) park entrance fee. Prices increase from there depending on what the trip includes (i.e. lunch, snorkeling, etc.). You’ll be able to find many options at the marina. Save yourself money and a headache by purchasing tickets directly from the captain and avoiding middlemen with empty promises. Bring only what you need to the beach. If you feel like making a night of it, hammocks and rustic cabanas are available starting at $10,000 COP ($5 USD).

Playa Blanca

Where to Stay in Cartagena, Colombia

Well, that depends on what kind of backpacker you are…

If you enjoy a sense of security, quiet time after hours, old city charm, and quick access to historical sites,

Stay in the Walled City. Everything you need is in walking distance and its safe to walk at night! Great food, beautiful architecture, grocery shopping, souvenir shopping — its all here. The price of hostels start at $25,000 COP ($12.50 USD).

If you are traveling to meet other young people and are looking for the hot spot among backpackers…

Choose a hostel on Media Luna. Media Luna is a street 10-15 minutes (by foot) outside of the Walled City in an area called Getsemani. Hostels here are notorious for being the site of parties in the street until the wee hours of morning and attract young backpackers looking to have a good time interacting with other gringos. These hostels are a bit less taken care. Be sure to lock up your belongings, as bathrooms inside shared dorms are open to party-goers off the street. Hostel Mamallena is a popular option starting at $25,000 COP ($12.50 USD) for a shared dorm.

Food in Cartagena, Colombia

While Colombia isn’t exactly famous for any one type of cuisine, you’ll never go hungry here. A typical Colombian dish or “menu del dia” (menu of the day) consists of a small salad, rice, beans, meat, and soup and can cost $6,000-12,000 COP ($3-6 USD). While you’re in the city be sure to try an “arepa”, which consists of a grilled or fried homemade bun and is stuffed or topped with cheese. These can be found all over from different food carts and cost no more than $2,000 COP ($1 USD). Don’t miss Colombia’s native fruits, including the delicious “lulo” that can be blended into an amazing cocktail or eaten with a spoon. “Aguardiente” is the liquor of choice in Colombia. It is made from sugar cane and its closest English translation is “fire water,” so maybe be careful with that.

By the way, the water is drinkable in Cartagena.

Arepas

“Lulos” or Naranjillas

Daily Average Cost of Backpacking in Cartagena – $32 USD

Hostel: $25,000 COP ($12.5 USD)

Food: $35,000 COP ($17.50 USD)

Activities: $12,000 COP ($6 USD)

Total: $72,000 COP ($36 USD)

Read here about our recommended best backpacking route in Colombia.

Have you traveled to Cartagena? Please share your experiences with us in the comments section below! Planning a trip? We would love to help!

Backpacking Across Colombia

That’s right. Colombia. I know what you’re thinking, “Hello!? Don’t you think you’re, like, going to get abducted by the drug cartel and… die?” That is, sadly, just about what I said to Brian two months ago when he suggested that we travel across this once-taboo South American country. Had I actually heard any recent information or news that would make me think Colombia was dangerous? Well, no. But rumor is as good as fact, right? Right??

Apparently, no. The common misconception that Colombia is unsafe for Americans is vastly outdated and things are continuing to improve. If we would’ve listened to my original reasoning, I would have missed out on three incredible weeks in a beautiful country. If you are considering a trip to or through Colombia, please, take advice from people who have been there and done it, not from people or articles that only offer old stereotypes!

In this guide, I’ll cover cities and places to visit, how to get there, where to stay, and safety.

The 5 Must-See Cities in Colombia

Where to start:

1. Cartagena.

Here is a great place to begin your Colombian adventure. Cartagena is a beautiful coastal city filled with rich history.

What to do in Cartagena :  Enjoy the old Walled City. During the day there are plenty of museums to check out for $5-10 USD. The Gold Museum is air-conditioned and free — a great way to escape the heat for a little bit. Once the sun starts to set, take a walk along the wall itself. Its too hot for this between 11 AM and 5 PM, but when it starts to cool off, you can really appreciate the size of the wall and the history behind it. There is even a restaurant on the wall (albeit pricey by backpacking standards) where you can grab a drink and watch the sun set over the water.

About 30 minutes (by foot) outside of the city walls lies Castillo San Felipe de Barajas. Admission costs about $10 USD. Exploring the fortress-like castle is a nice way to spend an afternoon, although, sadly, the map and descriptions are only offered  in Spanish.

If you’d like a day-trip outside of the city, take a 30-minute speedboat ride over to the nearby Rosario Islands and have a beach day on Playa Blanca. The ride starts around $20 USD.

Me at Castillo San Felipe de Barajas

Where to Stay in Cartagena : Inside the Walled City.

Staying inside the Walled City is the most relaxing way to spend time in Cartagena. The area is safe, even to walk at night, and there are loads of attractions nearby, although you may face a longer walk if you’re looking for nightlife.

If you’re looking for the hot spot among young backpackers and don’t mind a little after-hours noise (… who am I kidding? Its loud as Hell and the street is packed), pick a hostel on Media Luna. Media Luna is a street about ten to fifteen minutes walking distance outside of the walled city. Hostel Mamallena is popular party hostel and helps arrange trips to sail to Panama City, even if you are not a guest.

Safety in Cartagena : The Walled City is safe to anyone traveling with common sense. Keep an eye out for pickpockets and don’t try to buy drugs. While I felt totally safe in Cartagena, we met someone who left town $1,000 USD poorer after a drug transaction gone wrong.  Once outside of the city walls (i.e. Bocagrande or Getsemani), get around by taxi at night.

Check out our post on Backpacking Cartagena for more info!

Next stop: Take the 14 hour night bus to Medellin. The night bus is safe and surprisingly comfortable. For a more relaxing ride, be sure you are equipped with earplugs! You will want them when the loud music is still going strong at 3:00 AM. Colombian night buses are also notorious for their icy cold air conditioning. You’ll want to wear warm clothes and bring a blanket. The bus costs about $52 USD before negotiation. IMPORTANT: Colombian bus prices are always negotiable! If they ask you for $52, maybe offer them $30 then meet in the middle.

2. Medellin.

A true city on the rise. It has been over 20 years since the death of Pablo Escobar, marking the end of the world-known cocaine trafficking and political corruption era. While Medellin was once the center stage for corruption and violence, the city is now in the midst of a striking comeback. Medellin is Colombia’s second largest city and boasts an incredibly easy-to-navigate Metro system.

What to do in Medellin : There is an unlimited amount of things to do in this beautiful city. One of my favorite activities was visiting the Museo de Antioquia, which features dozens of Colombian-native, Ferdinand Botero’s paintings and much, much more. Other activities include fabulous free walking tours, paragliding, touring Pablo Escobar’s mansion (spoiler alert: it’s been bombed), taking the cable car up the mountain, visiting the city’s Botanical Garden, or taking it easy during the day to get ready for a big night in El Poblado, the city’s center for nightlife.

Enjoying a Botero Sculpture

Spending: The Metro system lets you easily get around without spending much money. A single ride only costs $1,800 COP (less than $1 USD). The local grocery stores are Euro Markets and Exitos. Save money during nights out in El Poblado by bringing your own drinks. Travelers and locals party and drink in the park square located in the middle of the bar/ club area.

Where to stay in Medellin : El Poblado.

This is the section of Medellin where most young travelers flock to and is close to the nightlife. The Tiger Paw is a popular hostel at $10 for a dorm. For a less touristy experience, stay in Laureles. A great hostel in this middle class section of Medellin is the Buddha Hostel at $12 per night.

Safety: As is the case in any big city, you’ll want to be careful here. Try not to flash around passports, cameras, or cell phones. Always have your hostel or restaurant call you a cab after dark.

Next Stop: Take a 2 hour bus to Guatape. The cost is about $6 USD before negotiation.

3. Guatape.

A great area to escape the city for a weekend! Guatape has a lot to offer tourists and is beautifully set on Lake Guatape, a man-made reservoir. The hydro-electric dam supplies power to most of Colombia, as well as some neighboring countries.

Brian overlooking Lake Guatape from “The Rock of Guatape”

What to do in Guatape : Come for the weekend (or longer if you decide you love it, like we did!) and participate in the many activities catered to Colombian and foreign tourists. Take a boat ride on Lake Guatape. Captains will take you past one of Pablo Escobar’s (bombed) mansions and over the sunken village that was flooded to create the reservoir. You can still see the steeple of an underwater church! Be sure to wear your swimsuit and take a dive into one of the lakes warm pools.

Pablo Escobar’s Finca in Guatape

Climb La Piedra del Peñol (“The Rock”). It takes 45 minutes to walk from town and the cost of admission is around $4 USD. The view from the top is worth every step!

The Rock

You can also kayak, explore the small town and its interesting cuisine, or find a quiet place to practice yoga.

Where to stay in Guatape : The Lakeview Hostel. The bus will drop you off right down the road from this $10 USD hostel. The staff here speaks English and are very helpful with arranging activities for their guests. They also offer an option to work for them in exchange for free housing!

Next Stop: Salento. It takes a bit of patience to get this out-of-the-way town in the Coffee Region. I recommend taking the night bus since it is safe — save money on a hostel and sleep during “wasted” travel time! Take the last bus from Guatape (6:30 PM) back to Medellin (2 hours). Once in Medellin, you will have to take a taxi from the North Terminal to the South Terminal (Terminal del Sur). Our taxi cost around $6 USD. Next, board the last bus to Armenia (11:00 PM) which is $20 USD before negotiating. This bus takes around 6-8 hours depending if there are accidents on the road. Prepare yourself for a night of twisting and turning up and down mountain roads! Note: Bring a blanket – the bus gets icy cold! From Armenia there are buses to Salento (45 minutes) throughout the day for only $1.50 USD

4. Salento.

This small town is set in Colombia’s Zona Cafetera (Coffee Zone), which is a vital to Colombia’s economy. Salento is a charming town of less than 8,000 residents and a great spot for backpackers and vacationers to enjoy.

What to do in Salento : Relax! Enjoy the views! Practice yoga on a mountain overlooking a valley of wax palm trees! And once you’ve taken it all in, visit a coffee plantation – I recommend Finca de Ocasa ($4 USD)! Learning about the coffee we consume daily was incredibly interesting to me. From the growth, to the processing, to which well-known distributors select which grade of coffee, I was completely absorbed for the entire tour.

Brian picking coffee beans

If you’re itching for your next trek, hike through the Valle de Cocora (Cocora Valley). This trek can be completed in 6-8 hours and offers views of the rare and beautiful Wax Palm trees. There is no entrance fee, so this is a free activity!

Pausing in our trek of Cocora Valley

Where to stay in Salento : We very happy with our accommodation at La Serrana Eco Farm and Hostel ($11.50). It is set 30 minutes from town (by foot) on top of a hill overlooking beautiful surrounding valleys. La Serrana offers free breakfast, delicious and inexpensive communal dinners, and tons of DVDs for watching (in English!). La Floresta Hostel is another option that is more budget-friendly, starting at $8.75 USD and located right in town. La Floresta is much more dated than La Serrana, but offers mud boot rentals for hiking Valle de Cocora as well as free maps and tourist information.

Next stop: Cali. Take the bus back to Armenia. If you’re traveling during a busy time, keep an eye on your bags here! Several thefts have been reported in the Armenia bus station. From Armenia, board the bus to Cali ($10 USD). This bus takes around 4 hours.

5. Cali.

This exciting city is not to be missed! Known to be the Salsa Capital of Colombia, and possibly the world, Cali can inspire even travelers with two left feet to get up and dance.

What to do in Cali : People love Cali for the culture of their nightlife. Practice your salsa skills during the day and let them loose when the sun goes down at one of Cali’s numerous salsa clubs. Many hostels offer free lessons. Private instruction is also available for a small hourly fee ($6 USD). Take at least one lesson while you are here, whether you are a dancer or not. You won’t regret it!

The Cali Zoo is a fun daytime activity in Cali and there are a few beautiful churches worth a visit, as well.

Zebra at the Zoo!

Where to stay in Cali : Hostel Viajero in the historical neighborhood of San Antonio. I was so impressed with this $12 USD hostel. Free daily salsa classes, free yoga classes, free breakfast, and the list goes on – all on top of a great atmosphere.

Safety: Cali is a big city and requires taking extra safety precautions. Always have your hostel or restaurant call a cab for you, as cab robberies do often happen, and ALWAYS take a cab after dark.

Continuing on to Ecuador? Keep in mind that night buses to the Southern Colombian border are NOT safe right now and are sometimes held up by armed bandits! Instead, spend the night in the border town of Ipiales, Colombia and check out this beautiful church!

Las Lajas Sanctuary in Ipiales, Colombia

If you’re planning a trip to Colombia and have any questions, we would love to help! Leave a question in the comments section below.

Hiking Volcan Baru in Boquete, Panama

Total cost – $13 USD

Hiking Volcan Baru is an experience that Brian and I will never forget. At 3,475 meters (11,400 feet), the Baru Volcano is the highest point in all of Panama. If you want to experience the rare sensation of viewing both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea from far above the clouds at sunrise, you might consider this strenuous midnight climb.

Volcan Baru on Central America Map

The trek up and back down the 500-years-dormant volcano is 27 kilometers and takes between 9 and 12 hours to complete. Note that hiking Volcan Baru is for advanced trekkers — but surely an incredible activity for anyone fit for the task! Here are seven tips from our firsthand experience on how to make it to the top, and how to do it on a backpacker’s budget:

The trek begins….

1. Skip the guide and go with a group!

Hiring a personal walking guide can cost about $90, not including transportation to and from the park entrance. The 4×4 Jeep tour (a bumpy, dusty ride) costs $120 per person and stops short of the top! We loved the companionship of going with a group and it gave us a chance to meet new friends! Hostel Mamallena (located in the Central Park Square of Boquete) offers a shuttle to the base of the volcano for only $5 per person. You can sign up during the day and meet the group at the hostel at 11:00 PM for the 11:30 departure. The shuttle drops you off at midnight to begin your trek.

We made two fires on our way up!

2. Make sure you know what you’re getting into

Hiking Volcan Baru is not a walk in the park! The trail is uneven, rocky terrain. On the way up, the rocks slide out from underneath you – think one step forward, two steps back, and it is, for the most part, directly uphill. For me personally, it felt like spending six hours on the Stairmaster. Ouch!

Brian lugging up the mountain

3. Know how cold it will get at the top of Volcan Baru

When we started walking at midnight, it was a comfortable 60 degrees Fahrenheit.  As you climb, the temperature obviously drops and about halfway up, we started seeing frost on the ground. By the time we reached the top, our group had stopped twice to gather brush and build fires to keep warm – this part was actually quite fun 🙂 ! I was wearing a hat, gloves, two pairs of socks, fleece-lined leggings, thick pants, long-sleeve Under Amour cold gear, a long-sleeve thermal, a sweater, a sweatshirt and a WINTER COAT and was still shivering waiting for the sun to rise. Bring enough layers!

The cross at the summit of Volcan Baru

4. Bring lots of water and some food for energy

While hiking Volcan Baru, we easily went through two liters of water each and got hungry after only about three hours! Sandwiches, granola, nuts, fruit, and even cookies are great snacks for the trek!

5. Its midnight. Don’t you dare try this without a headlamp!

I don’t even recommend a flashlight, since at times I needed to use my hands to climb. There are no lights whatsoever on the trail. We were actually out on a moonless night and it was pitch black. A headlamp is absolutely necessary.

6. Take your time on the way up

There are kilometer markers along the way that should make it fairly easy to judge your pace.  We’ve heard horror stories of groups that hurried to the top, got there an hour too early, and were too cold to wait for sunrise. After hours of hiking Volcan Baru in the dark, this would be tragic! Its a good idea to take a few minutes the night before to check the internet for the approximate time of sunrise. If you’re ahead of schedule, take another snack break, build another fire, or take a few minutes to wait for the slower parties to catch up.

7. Schedule a taxi home

The Volcan Baru National Park is only a short way out of the town of Boquete, but further still than you’ll find taxis and “collectivos” looking for business. If you don’t schedule transportation and don’t have an international cell phone, you might find yourself adding a few extra miles to the trek. 😉 After we complete hiking Volcan Baru, we shared a taxi with two other people (four total) and the ride cost us $3 USD per person. A fair time to schedule pickup is 12:00 noon.

Other notes on hiking Volcan Baru

• It was so nice that someone in our group had thought to bring a lighter or matches to start the fires. This was a great chance for us to take a break and get to know our fellow insane midnight trekkers. Without the fires, it just would have been too cold to stop and chat! If I did it again, I would remember to bring matches myself.
• Hey, maybe throw a roll of toilet paper and some hand sanitizer in your pack, too…

Costs of Hiking Volcan Baru

• Shuttle: $5 USD
• Park Entrance: $5 USD
• Return Shared-Taxi: $3 USD

Total cost of hiking Volcan Baru: $13

Hiking Volcan Baru was a monumental trek and was an experience of a lifetime! It was a grueling hike and we’ll remember it forever. We took it at our own pace and made it to the top with only 20 minutes to spare. There is a wooden cross at the top that was great for taking pictures with and the views are absolutely breathtaking! I mean, we’re talking “no filter on Instagram” views.

Thanks for taking the time to read!

Kate

Are you planning a trip to Boquete, Panama? Looking for an exciting and challenging excursion? Hiking Volcan Baru? Leave a question in the comments section below and we’ll be happy to help!

Backpacking the Osa Peninsula

The Osa Peninsula, Costa Rica : How to get there and what to do:

After days of a laid-back jungle lifestyle, surrounded by the most beautiful natural sights, I’m happy to report that the Osa Peninsula on the South Pacific region of Costa Rica is a must-see when traveling in Costa Rica or through Central America. The tropical rainforest and all of its inhabitants make this a truly unforgettable destination.

Kate enjoying a deserted beach @ the Osa Peninsula

How to get to the Osa Peninsula:

How do you get to what National Geographic calls the “most biologically intense” place on Earth? Its easier than it sounds, although a bit of a long journey. The easiest, most direct, and affordable way for backpackers to get there is to begin in San Jose, the transportation hub of Costa Rica.

We flew from NYC through Fort Lauderdale into San Jose and spent one night in the city. The airport is a ways out of town, and taxis can be pricey, but the city bus is only about $2 USD! Bypass all of the aggressive taxi drivers at the airport, walk past the parking garage, and out the main entrance. When you get to the road, turn right and walk for about a minute. You’ll see a few buses on the side of the road. All you have to say is “San Jose” and they’ll direct you to the correct bus. The ride is about 25-35 minutes. The Van Gogh Hostel ($14 USD) was a nice, clean and secure, basic hostel in a safe part of San Jose for a travel day. The host, David, is very helpful!

Once in San Jose, take the 8:00 AM bus to Puerto Jimenez. Finding the bus station is a little tricky on your own! The bus station itself doesn’t open until just before 8:00 AM, when the bus leaves, and there is only a tiny sign that says “Transportes Blanco” on a building on an out-of-the-way street. Since our español is pretty rusty, we found the easiest way to find the station was to catch a cab at the Holiday Inn near the center of town. The short cab ride was about $3 USD.

The bus cost 7,500 CRC (about $15 USD) each for obvious gringos. Maybe a bit cheaper if your nationality isn’t so obvious. Buses leave at 8:00 AM and 12:00 PM. Our bus took 9.5 hours so we were very glad we took the 8:00 AM departure. Be prepared for lots of stops! The bus made 2 bathroom/rest stops and about 20 other stops, picking up locals that were walking on the road. Our bus was also delayed due to an accident.

The bus ride was long, but we really enjoyed getting to see so much of Costa Rica along the way! The scenery is beautiful.

This is the bus route we took to get down to the Osa Peninsula and Puerto Jimenez

Where to stay in the Osa Peninsula:

The Bello Horizonte Jungle Hostel! We couldn’t have been happier with our choice to stay here! We picked it for the price ($14.76 USD), but ended up with some of the best experiences we’ve had so far on our trip. Peter and Lucia are the owners of this newer hostel and they are delightful. Peter, from California and English-speaking, picks you up from the bus station when the bus comes arrives and drives you to the grocery store to pick up groceries for your stay. The hostel is about a 15 minute drive or 45 minute walk from Puerto Jimenez, tucked into the secondary rainforest.

We met and became friends with travelers from Hungary, Russia, Germany, and France as well as the Tican staff. In the mornings we would wake up to little monkeys swinging around the trees right above you and being feet away from vibrant toucans in the clubhouse!

The accommodations are pretty rustic – electricity and Wi-Fi are only available in the clubhouse and only available from 5:30-10:00 PM! The rooms are open-air cabanas with a roof, 3 walls, and mosquito nets over the beds.

Word from the wise: bring a headlamp or a flashlight! The jungle gets dark at night. Duh. I also strongly recommend bug spray!

Our Cabina at Bello Horizonte Jungle Hostel

Top 5 Things to do in the Osa Peninsula:

1. Corcovado National Park. This is the main reason people come to this area. The national park covers most of the Osa Peninsula and is a serious trek on which you can find over 400 species of birds alone and 10% of all of the mammals that exist in the Americas. Be prepared to carry all of your food and water on your back for this 1-2 full day trek! A $10 permit and a guide are now required to enter the park. This website’s tours have great reviews: Osatravel.com.

The trips can be expensive on a backpacking budget, but if you’re in Costa Rica, do you really want to miss it? Tip: Make sure you’re up to it! This is a strenuous trek and should not be taken lightly. Have you heard of Golden Orb Spiders? You will be sharing the forest with them.

Corcovado National Park is what draws people from all over the world

2. Visit the Osa Wildlife Sanctuary. If the cost of the park guide is a bit over budget or if you haven’t trained for the 21 km trek into Corcovada, you can still visit the exotic animals at the Osa Wildlife Sanctuary. The sanctuary is open to visitors between 9-11 AM and the entrance fee is $25 per person. Make sure you do your research first, as there are restrictions on what is allowed inside.

3. Walk the secondary rainforest trails! You’re already in the rainforest, now explore it! Our hostel had trails all over the 10 acre property (at no cost to us), leading all over the jungle, down to little creeks. It was a blast wandering around, taking pictures and spotting sloths and different kinds of monkeys and tropical birds. Some local families offer guided tours around their properties for a small fee (about $5 USD).

4. Enjoy a beach on Gulf of Dulce. A few of us walked about 45 minutes down the road to a secluded beach on the Gulf of Dulce.

This cost us $0 and was breathtaking! Flocks of bright red macaws come to the beach during the day. We must have seen 20 in one tree alone. Bring lots of water, snacks, sunscreen, and a good book. Spend the whole day. You won’t want to leave 🙂

5. Rent a kayak. Make your way into town and rent a kayak. Its only $4 per hour! Don’t bring more than you need! You will get wet! As always… don’t forget your sunglasses and sun block.

take a few hours and jump in a kayak!

Average Daily Cost of Travel in the Osa Peninsula, Costa Rica – $35 Per Day

Hostel: $14 USD
Food: $10 USD
Transportation: $10 USD

This is a tough question to answer. There are many different price options you can go while backpacking this area. If you want to really see Corcovado National Park the average daily cost will be significantly higher. The park requires that you hire a guide to take you in and out of the park. This can cost around $85-120 USD per day with meals.

We suggest that you get into the park for a day or two and spend the rest of your time on the outskirts. This area has so much to offer. Whether its near Puerto Jimenez, Drake, Rincon, or La Palma there really is a lot to do. Obviously the world class park is the main attraction.

If you stay in a jungle hostel, cook your own food, and walk to most of your destinations, you can easily backpack for less than $25 per day.

Traveling to Costa Rica or the Osa Peninsula for the first time? Post a question in the comments section below, we’ll respond with advice!

What to pack backpacking through Central and South America

Brian and I left for Costa Rica last week! We had been talking about it and saving our money for a year, and now have finally begun our open-ended month trek across Central and South America.

For weeks I was planning what to pack, making lists, and getting excited! And yet strategically packing only a  single backpack was a daunting task. In the past, I have notoriously been the type of packer that would wind up packing half of my apartment for a seven-day beach vacation. Yup.  What can I say? I like to be prepared.

Unfortunately, I will not be able to carry half of my apartment on my back. And anyway, I was a cheapskate with our departure tickets and had to abide by Spirit Airline’s 40lb weight restriction.  Sigh. Needless to say, this time around I had to downsize my list of “necessities”.

Now, we don’t have a concrete itinerary.  We are planning to come and go through countries and cities as we please and hopefully gather route suggestions  from other travelers we meet along our path. Our tentative route, as of today, is Costa Rica, Panama, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia with the possibility of travelling as far as Argentina, Chile, or Brazil. We will see.

So, here is my complete list of what to pack when backpacking across Central and South America.

Let’s start with clothes…

• Tops

  • 3 simple tank tops

  • 2 layer-able long sleeve shirts

  • 1 sweater

  • 1 sweatshirt

  • 2 casual short sleeve shirts

• Pants

  • 2 pairs athletic capris or shorts

  • 2 pairs black leggings – 1 standard, 1 fleece-lined

  • 1 pair of travel pants*

  • 1 pair jeans

  • 1 pair jean shorts

  • 1 sun dress – nothing fancy or flashy

*Travel pants are comfortable, non-sexy pants to travel in and not draw attention to yourself. Mine are a loose-fitting, army green pair that I picked up for $20 at Marshall’s.

Bear in mind when reading this that I am someone who is comfortable wearing leggings as pants! In fact, they are my pant of choice! If leggings are out of your comfort zone, try a lightweight cargo pant instead! A good rule in packing is that if it’s not something you feel comfortable in at home, you’re not going to want to wear it on vacation either!

• Under-things

  • 2 comfortable bras* – convertible/ removable straps? Even better

  • 2 sports bras

  • 5 pairs of socks

  • 10 pairs of underwear –

*Choose your bras wisely and according to the tops you pack! Maybe opt for a tan or nude one and a black one? No one wants hot pink bra straps visible in photographs!

• Accessories

  • 2 pairs of earrings I can wear with anything

  • 1 pair of sunglasses

I didn’t bring much in the way of accessories because (1) I know myself and that means I know I will lose them and (2) who doesn’t want to buy a vibrant handmade scarf in Peru and a beautiful piece of costume jewelry in Panama?

• Miscellaneous

  • 2 pairs of pajamas

  • 2 bikinis –  I packed 2 so I can wear one while the other is drying

  • 2 beach covers

  • 1 winter coat

• Shoes

  • Sneakers – I’m not a hiking boots gal…  Too heavy and clunky. To each her own.

  • Plain old cheap flip flops

  • Crocs sandals– “Sexi” flips … I like Crocs. These are great. They are comfortable and stay on my feet  and really not that bad looking at all.

Another suggestion would be to roll all of your clothing. It packs down smaller and doesn’t leave as many awkward creases and wrinkles as folding does. When all was said and done, clothes (packed tightly) took up about half of my backpack. Packing a winter coat was a tough decision to make, but we’re planning to make it to Machu Picchu in Peru and the temperatures can be as low as 40 degrees. The solution: a jacket in a packet. I bought mine from UNIqlo on sale for $59.99 and I love it! It’s a knee-length, hooded, down jacket that weighs next to nothing and  folds up into a bag about the size of a football. Shorter and hood-less versions are available, too, and take up even less space. The jacket is the only real piece of cold weather gear I’m bringing. If we need hats, gloves, or scarves, we  will pick them up along the way.

I packed about a week’s worth of outfits, these clothes are going to be subject to a lot of wear and probably some tear. Because of this, I tried to pack items that I like enough to not get sick of, but that I can live without if they get ruined. A great reason to NOT overpack is souvenir shopping! I’m looking forward to shopping for a few native pieces along the way and I made sure to save a little room in my bag.

• Gadgets/ tech

  • Cell phone – My plan doesn’t cover international calls, but I still want my phone to surf the web.

  • Google Chromebook  – I love this thing. It is extremely lightweight, boots up in 7 seconds or less, and has a 7 hour battery life on a full charge. Not a bad buy for $200 and definitely beats lugging around my old dinosaur laptop.

  • Digital Camera and SD cards

  • International outlet adapter

  • headphones

• Travel Documents

  • Driver’s License

  • Passport (Note: Costa Rica won’t accept a passport that expires within 6 months)

  • Copies of passport and driver’s license, along with credit card numbers and credit card companies phone numbers

Email the copies to yourself. If your backpack is stolen, at least you’ll be able to head to a local internet café and print out the copies.

• Medication – this will vary person to person, but here is what I brought

  • Tums

  • Dramamine

  • Antibiotic Rash Cream

  • Migraine Relief

  • Prescriptions

  • Ibuprofen

Some people also suggest Imodium.

• Toiletries – This is where I met my over-packing dilemma. How much do I really want to go without? Here’s what I took:

  • Shampoo

  • Conditioner

  • Bar of soap

  • Face wipes – because having a clean face will feel like a luxury when traveling in dirty buses to cheap hostels

  • Toothbrush

  • Toothpaste

  • Floss

  • Deodorant

  • Lady products

  • Razor/ Refills

  • Chapstick

  • Sun screen

  • Make-up – just the things I need to survive and can’t live without!

  • Unscented lotion

  • Extra contact lenses and solution

Everything I brought is travel-sized! When things run out, I will refill my travel bottles or buy new. I’ve read that all basic toiletries are pretty easy to score on the road, unless you’re picky about brands. The only things I’ve heard to bring a sufficient amount of is contacts and contact solution, as they can be low quality in some areas and very expensive. Also, some have said that tampons can be hard to come by in Bolivia. Mosquito repellent with DEET will be something we’ll pick up along the way.

• Miscellaneous

  • Travel towel – Mine is a PackTowl in the XL size. They are super absorbent, lightweight, and compact. Best of all: quick-drying! I’m sure this is one item I won’t regret packing.

  • Money belt – It’s no secret that many backpackers have had their backpacks stolen in a matter of seconds when they were not paying close attention. It can really happen to anyone. Money belts are a great place to store your cash and passport, in case the worst happens. Mine is a FlipBelt. Its actually made for wearing during a workout, but i love it because its stretchy and has no zippers, which makes it comfortable to wear all day. And its machine-washable.

  • Day pack – Any string backpack or sling-back purse will do. This is just for when I’m leaving my big backpack locked up back at the hostel. An ideal day pack is collapsible to store easily in your backpack.

  • Headlamp

  • A book – I’m limiting myself to one.

  • Yoga mat

  • A sink stopper – for washing clothes in the sink

That just about sums it up! Did I forget anything? I’ll give updates along the way and let you know how this works out for me. Happy travels!